Issue 30 • Engine & Transmission Tips

Hey! Great! You’ve decided the Fraser Engine Co. remanufactured engine (or transmission), is the one for you.

But, are you prepared to get your new baby properly installed? You’ve got a certified mechanic with a strong track record? Super! But just because you’re using a certified mechanic to install your Fraser Remanufactured Engine, is no excuse not to be educated. This Fraser Essential Engine Installation Checklist highlights the items to be addressed when replacing an engine. NOTE: Not every installer will do everything on this checklist. It is up to you if you sense they are being evasive or generally annoyed with your questions. There is nothing on this list that a true professional would shrug off. After all, it is your car and your money.

Major items and tasks related to engine replacement:

The installer should…

1. Inspect & clean, (or replace), all parts connected to the drive train, including:
   • Engine and transmission mounts and bolts
   • Pulleys and belts not inside the engine, including:
     1. Alternator
     2. Water pump
     3. Power-steering pump
     4. A/C compressor
   • Radiator hoses and clamps
   • Deteriorating wiring harnesses and other hoses
2. Flush the radiator and install new fluid
3. Flush the oil cooler line
4. Check, (and clean), the battery for leaks or terminal corrosion
5. Inspect the intake manifold for warping and/or cracks
6. Thoroughly clean the intake manifold.
   NOTE: This is an especially important task as lots of debris can get lodged in the intake manifold nooks and crannies, only to be loosened by the engine replacement
   process, and thus immediately be sucked into your new engine and cause damage the first time it’s started. In the case of engine failure, our inspection specifically checks for this kind of debris damage, which is NOT covered by any Fraser warranty.
7. Check all vacuum lines and tee connections

The installer may consider completely replacing the following items at the time of the engine installation, depending on their condition and age. They may be included in the price quoted to you, but often they are charged as an additional line item:

1. Thermostat
2. Water pump
3. Belts
4. Radiator and Heater hoses and clamps
5. Spark plugs and wires
6. Distributor Cap and Rotor
7. Install ONLY 100% Synthetic Oil*
8. New Air and Fuel filters
9. New PCV (Pressure Control Valve)

Consumable items are needed at the time of installation, which may be an additional, (non-included), charge to you, so check with your installer:

1. 100% Synthetic Oil* (Yes, we mentioned this twice.)
2. Antifreeze/Coolant mix
3. Brake, Power Steering, and other fluids
4. Replaceable gaskets and silicone sealant

*Even though the oil in your new engine needs to be changed after the first 500 miles, and then again after the first 1,000 miles, Fraser highly recommends using 100% synthetic oil for the entire life of your engine. The enhanced protection of synthetic oil far outweighs the expense.

Best Break-In Practices

On the topic of the break-in period. This is not a joke, Your newly-rebuilt engine needs time to hone, harden, and acclimate internal parts. With a new rebuild, fine pieces of metal and debris can collect in the oil, to avoid any issues CHANGE THE OIL as recommended in the break-in instructions. You should also check the oil for possible impending break-in issues. The most obvious issues indicating there may be a forthcoming problem are burning oil and excessive debris in the oil pan.

Also, check your fluid levels at least once a week for the first few months, and correct them as needed. Engine fluids can be absorbed as they work themselves into the internal tubes and channels.

If you have excessive fluid loss of any kind, check with a mechanic immediately. This is most likely covered under your warranty, so don’t wait or brush it off.

When you start your car up, outside the garage, ready to drive off… DON’T.  If the mechanic says they have not performed an initial, stationary break-in, you should do it yourself in the parking lot. Simply allow your engine to run for at least 20 minutes. Vary the RPMs of the engine from idle to halfway to the red line.

1. Starting with an idle for five minutes, listen to the engine for any non-timing related sounds, i.e. noises that are not in harmony with the engine’s normal rhythm.
2. Rev the engine up to +1,000 RPM for a minute, then add another 1,000 RPM for a minute, then let it reduce to an idle for the next three minutes, and listen again. Also watch for any indicator lights, gauges showing problematic levels, and smoke from the engine compartment or tailpipe.
3. At the 10-minute mark, rev the engine up to +3,000 RPM for a minute. Then back to idle for 4 more minutes, listening and looking the entire time. You may even want to get out and open the hood.
4. For the last 5 minutes, you’re going to rev the engine up and let it spin back down as if you were trying to impress your best friend. Make the engine roar momentarily and then purr.

All of these steps allow your cam, lifters, rings, seals, and bearings time to “shake hands” properly.

Remember, do not over-rev your engine. The first 1,000 miles is not the time to race anyone, i.e. redline the RPMs.

You’ve made all the right decisions in buying a Fraser Engine Co. remanufactured engine and finding and communicating with a reputable garage for the surgery. Don’t blow it by blowing it.

We wish you the best motoring experience!